Lafayette, CA - Kathy's Home - 8/25/16

Lafayette, CA - Kathy's Home - 8/25/16

Last year we had hoped to visit our friend, Kathy, at her home in Lafayette, CA, but we realized that it was a bit further than we could travel.  This year we made a visit to her home a priority ... After all the years of hiking together in Tucson and traveling together to various meetings around the world, we had heard many stories of her life, her home, wild turkeys, grazing deer, untended pear orchard, reservoir lake ... It was time to see it for ourselves.

Fortunately, no pictures were taken of the operation to back Bambi into her driveway ... We had the help of her neighbors and her mother, Velma ... And, Paul succeeded in backing into the parking area without taking off the corner of her house (with inches to spare) ... No landscape lighting was injured in the course of this operation ;-)

One of the beauties of the Bay Area is the fact that flowering plants actually grow quite happily on the back patio ... Not quite the struggle to keep them alive that is part of the desert experience ...

A walk around the Lafayette Reservoir revealed the wild turkeys ...

Alas, no deer showed themselves ... We did see the untended pear orchard and reaped some of the bounty ...

Update:  Kathy sent a picture of the turkeys and the deer!

Manchester Beach, CA & Schooner Gulch Trail & Bowling Ball Beach - 8/25/16

Manchester Beach, CA & Schooner Gulch Trail & Bowling Ball Beach - 8/25/16

We left one KOA in Crescent City for another one in Manchester Beach, further down the coast.  This one was located on a one mile trail to Manchester Beach from the campground and was equipped with a hot tub (much appreciated after a long drive).

Speaking of the hot tub, we met a young woman (everyone seems "young" to us; unless they're way "older" than us ;-), who had cycled from Washington State down the coast highway and was one day from her destination (Sebastapol) to see her boyfriend.  We were in awe of the fact that she had cycled these narrow, twisting roads along Highway 101 and Highway 1 ... She felt that the support for cyclists had been good (lots of signs reminding drivers to share the road with cyclists), but felt that there were a few dyspeptic drivers, usually driving pick-up trucks, who were insulting, threatening or dangerous to cyclists.  When asked what the most challenging part of her ride had been, she mentioned her stop in Garberville, CA.  We had also stopped earlier in the day at Garberville and were struck by the strange vibe in the town.  She told us that it was pot harvesting time and the "harvesters" were gathering in Garberville both to work and to score some pot and that it led to a bit of a Wild West environment in the town with outsiders and desperadoes who could be aggressive.

We headed down the path to Manchester Beach ... Meeting a great egret along the way (in a marsh pond).  Again, the beach was relatively deserted ... Black, coarse grains of sand ... More driftwood, but few shells (mostly parts of crabs) and a scattering of kelp washed ashore.

Our trip back was graced by some colorful thistles (Eeyore's favorite)

The next stop was a hike recommended by our friend, Kathy ... Schooner Gulch Trail and Bowling Ball Beach.  We found the trailhead off of Highway 1 and joined the folks heading down to a lovely beach, with beige, finer sand, driftwood and fresh water running into the ocean.  Lots of dogs and children enjoying the beach with some sun breaking through the clouds.

We followed the trail to Bowling Ball Beach only to find the steps washed out and a huge rope to be used to lower oneself down the final way to the beach ... An Asian couple who were picnicking on the cliff above the beach convinced us (me) that we could make it down (and, equally important, back up using the rope).  Down we went ... But the high tide kept us from seeing the full "bowling ball" effect of the rocks lining the low tide waterline (which was invisible at high tide).  We did have some pelicans cruising the coast line ...

Paul thought I should have taken a picture of us using the rope to climb up and down to the beach ... It would have made a good picture, particularly as the photographer fell into the water below as she tried to both haul herself up with the rope and fell while snapping photos ... Alas, the photographer forget to get Paul's more coordinated climb with the rope.

The return trail was covered with sweet peas ... And naked ladies ...

No ... Not those kind of naked ladies ... Flowers ;-)

Tolowa Dunes State Park - Crescent City, CA - 8/22/16

Tolowa Dunes State Park - Crescent City, CA - 8/22/16

We're finding ourselves less satisfied with our KOA experience ... It is certainly a reliable "product" with easy to use reservation system and predictable features (electricity, water, sewer ... And laundry, showers, picnic tables), but it lacks the natural environment and sense of seclusion that we have valued in camping.  Our preferred campgrounds on this trip have been US Forest Service campgrounds ... We need to "dry camp" at these sites, but the experience is so much preferable.  (Note to self:  Use KOA campgrounds for re-fueling and dumping and then head "for the hills".)

We decided rather than taking a long drive down Highway 101 to other sections of Redwoods National and State Parks that we'd head to the ocean just west of our current campground to the Tolowa Dunes State Park and take a short hike to the ocean and walk along the California Coastal Trail (basically walking along the coastline beach).

It was a pleasant change of pace (although hiking on sandy trails has its own unique challenge ... Even for relatively short distances).  The coastline was fogged in ... Temperatures were quite cool ... Winds stiff (certainly easier walking with the wind to our back rather than facing into the wind).
The coastal beach was ours.  The beach contained darker, almost volcanic black coarse grains of sand with almost no signs of shells ... A few remains of crabs, but not much else.  Some long strands of kelp lay on the shore ... But a fairly desolate swatch of beach.

The story of the indigenous peoples did not reflect positively on the Anglo settlers ... Apparently the official policy of the California government during the time of the California gold rush was extermination of native peoples.  During a period from 1851 to 1855, several massacres occur leading to the deaths of thousands of native peoples and the elimination of their two largest villages on the coast ... Death from disease and starvation largely completed the "job".  Although Native Americans still remain in this area (largely running small casinos), the abandoned coastline reflects their sad story.

Boy Scout Tree Trail - Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and Stout Grove - Crescent City, CA - 8/21/16

Boy Scout Tree Trail -  Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park and Stout Grove - Crescent City, CA - 8/21/16

We found the cool ... Coastal California Cool ... Dropping from temperatures in the high 90s in valleys near Mt. Shasta to the mid-50s as we arrived at the KOA Redwoods/Crescent City.  It was a long drive under the shadow of Mt. Shasta and through the twists and turns of the road through Lake Shasta country. There was a wide earthen fringe along the banks of Lake Shasta indicating very low water levels.  The California (and western) drought is severe.  It remains a puzzle as to what forces led Governor Jerry Brown to lift the state-wide water emergency declaration ... Perhaps the regional water authorities are in better shape to manage the drought, but the state is definitely under environmental stress due to drought.

We started the day with a trip to the Redwoods National Park Visitor's Center in Crescent City and found that this is the only national park in the nation that is jointly managed with a state park system ... Hence the correct name is the Redwoods National and State Park and is comprised of Redwoods National Park, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.  The historic range for the old-growth coast redwood forest canopy was approximately 2,000,000 acres when logging began in 1850.  Today, just five percent of the forest remains.  Redwood National and State Parks preserves over 35 percent of all remaining, protected old-growth coast redwood forests in California.  Unlike other national parks, this national park does not have a focal point ... Instead it is managed as a conservation zone running down the coastal mountains from Crescent City in the north along Highway 101 as far south as Trinidad.

We took a walk along the beach walkway and jetty out from the shoreline in Crescent City and found ourselves in the midst of the Crescent City Triathlon ... Cheering runners as we walked along.  We were able to see the Battery Point Lighthouse (at low tide ... Cut off from land at high tide).

And then took off on the Howland Hill Road through Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.  The road was one lane, dirt road through towering old-growth redwoods.  We stopped and hiked the 5.6 mile Boy Scout Tree Trail to Fern Falls.  I must admit that the Fern Falls were not much, nor was there any water running in most of the rivulets through the forest.  The magic was the enormity of the redwoods, quiet of the forest cushioned environment and the other worldly feeling of walking through the fern covered valleys housing these gigantic trees.  We continue to run into a significant number of international visitors seeking the same treasures that we've come to experience.

Further along the Howland Hill Road was the Stout Grove, a .5 mile loop trail that meanders among colossal redwoods thriving in the soils of the Smith River floodplain.  The flood waters have inhibited the growth of understory trees and plants revealing the full stature of the 300 foot coast redwoods.  The grove is a gift from the wife of a forest baron ... Who, of course, made their fortune cutting down these magnificent trees ... A gift yes, but an enormous cost to a forest ecosystem.

By this time, we were done for the day ... And still had grocery shopping to accomplish.  We tried desperately to find a place for dinner, but were thwarted by few restaurants open on Sunday and those that were had crowds out the door.  Alas, more home-cooking in Bambi (we're running a bit low on creative ideas ... Particularly after a long day of walking/hiking).  A cold beer solves most problems ...

Lassen Volcanic National Park - From Hell yesterday to Paradise today - 8/19/16

Lassen National Volcanic Park - From Hell yesterday to Paradise today - 8/19/16

If yesterday was (Bumpass) Hell, then today was Paradise (Meadows).  But first, we started out on a trail to King's Creek Falls ... 3 mile round trip ... With about 450' elevation loss (and, what goes down, must come back up ;-).  The falls were picturesque ... For Arizonans, any hike near water or with water as a destination is a plus.

The second hike of the day was to Paradise Meadows alongside Hat Creek on the northern slope of Mt. Lassen.  This hike was shaded by forest and had several water crossings and a number of cascades flowing down the mountain flanks ... 3 mile round trip ...with 700' elevation gain (and loss) leading to a high alpine meadow.  Lunch was beside a tributary to Hat Creek ... With a trip back down the trail.

We opted not do climb Mt. Lassen ... It is quite exposed (above the tree line), quite steep and a known lightening attractor.  And, to tell the truth, I simply didn't want to face the steep ascent and descent.  Four types of volcanoes in this national park:  Shield, Cinder Cone, Plug Dome and Composite.  Mt. Lassen, itself, is an example of a plug dome volcano.

Lassen National Volcanic Park proved to be worth the visit with its geology, geothermal features, and forested hikes with running water and glacial and volcano formed lakes.  Next stop ... Redwoods National Park near Crescent City, CA on the coast.

All we need is ...

Lassen Volcanic National Park - Bumpass Hell Trail - 8/18/16

Lassen Volcanic National Park - Bumpass Hell Trail - 8/18/16

A long ride yesterday, through Carson Pass and down to Carson City, Nevada, through Reno, Nevada and back into California to travel across the northern border of Lassen Volcanic National Park to a KOA Mt. Lassen/Shingletown.

Today we went to the Lassen Volcanic National Park entering on the northwestern Manzanita Lake entrance.  Our first stop was a section of the park known as the Devastated Area.  From 1914 to May, 1915, Lassen spewed steam and ashes in more than 150 eruptions.  On May 19, 1915, the mountain top exploded.  Lava crashed through the 1914 crater and a 20 foot high wall of mud, ash, and melted snow roared down the mountain.  Three days later, a huge mass of ashes and gases shot out of the volcano, devastating a swath a mile wide and three miles long.  Since then, except for a small eruption in 1921, Lassen Peak has been quiet.  The interpretative walk was an introduction to the types and ages of the dacite rock that are the dominant rock forms in the park.

Our next stop was to the Bumpass Hell Trail.  The placed is named for Kendall Virgil Bumpass, a local guide, who in 1860s, while taking some tourists to visit the geothermal features, plunged a leg through the thin crust covering a mud pot ... A temperature of approximately 240 degrees ... And joked about his "easy descent into hell".  Joking aside, he lost his leg from the burn damage.

The trail was only about 3 miles round trip, but descended into an area of active geothermal features ... Fumaroles, mud pots, hissing ponds of steaming, colorful water, streams of sulphur laden water.   A bit of the Yellowstone experience on a smaller, more intimate scale ...

Lupines covered the hillsides ... I asked a Ranger if there was something specific about the soil to support these fields of lupines.  He didn't really know the answer, but said that it was an amazing sight in the spring to see the flowers highlighted against the snow on the ground.

We drove down to the Kohm Yah-Nah-Mee Visitor's Center ... Watched the movie about the geology of the park ... And, got my souvenir magnet celebrating the 100th anniversary of the park in 2015.

Our return drive was marked by a mountain rainstorm followed by a mountain hailstorm (pea to marble size) ... The temperature change was dramatic.  The hailstorm brought temperatures of 55 degrees ... By the time that we got back to Bambi, the temperature was 94 degrees ... A swing of 39 degrees.

"When you are in the mountains, the mountains are in you" ... John Muir